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不只是臭鳜鱼，这里还有意想不到的美味

时间：2018-01-08 18:45:22阅读：66010次
徽商，在中国这片古老的土地上名震四方，作为徽商的发源地，徽州是那些无奈心酸与功成名就的起点。本周日晚21:00，深圳卫视治愈系美食纪录片老恒和《宅人食堂》第三季带着留白寒舍老板夫妇一道，来到了千千万万
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徽商，在中国这片古老的土地上名震四方，作为徽商的发源地，徽州是那些无奈心酸与功成名就的起点。本周日晚21:00，深圳卫视治愈系美食纪录片老恒和《宅人食堂》第三季带着留白寒舍老板夫妇一道，来到了千千万万徽商梦想开始的地方，追寻记忆深处最暖心的味道。用一道徽菜，勾起漂泊游子的浓浓乡情，安抚未归旅人对家乡深深的思念。

最难忘怀是乡味

吉林和凯妹是留白寒舍的老板，计划着在民宿内开伙深夜食堂，此次受到宅人食堂的邀请寻味徽菜，恰合了二人心意。徽菜，即徽州菜简称，是中国传统的八大菜系之一，起源于古徽州，有着数百年的历史。徽菜的发展，是和徽商的兴衰相伴相生的。原本是徽商出身的汪磊，是吉林和凯妹探访的第一位徽菜大厨。汪师傅在外漂泊多年，为了追寻童年的舌尖滋味，回到了家乡。

徽菜的特别之处在于它对食材的严苛要求。徽地盛产山珍野味河鲜家禽，就地取材使菜肴地方特色突出并保证鲜活。梅圣俞诗曰：“雪天牛尾狸，沙地马蹄鳖”。单是听名字，就知这菜，非徽地不能烹也。对于汪磊来讲，只有徽地独产的新鲜而地道的食材，才能做出一道道正宗的徽州美味，才能唤起舌尖遥远的记忆。

火腿、葛粉、冬瓜干，徽人出身的凯妹把让它们往嘴里一放，味蕾就被攻陷，家乡的往事也随着那些味道一并涌来。邻里的寒暄，递过的零嘴，同龄的伙伴，徽州老家的木门，好像一下子就被推开了。道地的食材，凝聚着汪师傅对待家乡滋味的赤诚与执着，这一集，不仅见证徽菜的鲜香美味，更带你一起见证一饭一蔬的来之不易。

是家常滋味，也是精致礼物

徽州臭鳜鱼、黄山双石、毛峰里脊丝、徽州泉水丸子，这都是徽系名菜，也是云门山居掌门人程志强的拿手菜。

臭鳜鱼做好的秘诀是火，黄山双石最重要的是保证汤的原味，毛峰里脊看的是刀工和上浆滑油。程师傅每一步都不马虎，一道道菜的烹饪过程，在程师傅的手里，成为一幕幕视觉盛宴。他说作为一名厨师，把控好每一环节是最基本的。对每一样食材、每一道工序都怀有敬畏之心，才能把每一道菜都做好。他心目中的“深夜食堂”除了是家常味道，还应该是端在食客们面前的精致礼物。

镜头带我们探寻的这位徽菜非遗传承人，究竟认真是到了何种地步，连食客也叹为观止呢？

徽菜中的野趣

桃花流水鳜鱼肥，这鱼究竟有多肥？吉林和凯妹在刘芸甫的带领下，来到山野，亲眼瞧到了即将下肚的食材乐于奉献的一生。

刘芸甫做菜的笋是问政山在秋季盛产的鞭笋。它的前端部分细长似鞭，故而得名。又称鞭梢，笋鞭。外包坚硬的笋壳，形状尖削，穿透力甚强，但笋肉色泽洁白，清鲜醇香，可以烹饪出多种美味可口的菜品，可荤可素，老少皆宜，是徽州当地极具特色，徽民们常用的食材之一。镜头里三人迎着夕阳下山，除了刚挖好的新鲜边笋，收获更多的是三人对问政山这片神奇土地的敬仰和感叹。为了做一道毛峰虾仁，刘芸甫不辞辛苦地到茶山上掐下一芽芽最嫩的茶尖，毛峰入菜，不仅给舌尖送了一丝清新，也给做菜的过程平添了一分乡野之趣。

葵花斫肉又究竟是什么？吉林和凯妹在亲眼见到之前，也从未了解过被冠了这般雅名的肉圆究竟有何玄机。其貌不扬的萝卜苗在刘师傅的巧手里几下摆弄，就变成了葵花，让人大开眼界

本周日晚21:00，深圳卫视治愈系美食纪录片老恒和《宅人食堂》第三季带你走进徽地，感受认真烹出的乡味与野趣。

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